Fix it
Garage door closes then opens again
The door is doing exactly what it was designed to do: it thinks it has hit something. Every opener made since 1993 must reverse if it meets resistance or loses the sensor beam. The job is finding what it is meeting, and it is usually one of four things.
Do this first
Watch where it reverses. Right at the floor points at the down limit or the close force. Partway down points at the track or the sensors.
3 of 4 are yours to fix
What it usually turns out to be
| Cause | How to tell | What happens next | Yours? |
|---|---|---|---|
| The down limit is set too far | It touches the floor, then opens. Sensor lights stay steady throughout. | The opener is still pushing after the door has landed and reads that as an obstruction. Back the down-travel setting off. | Yes |
| The close force is set too low | It reverses at different points, and more so in cold weather when the door is stiffer. | Force adjustment on the opener head. It should be set to the minimum that closes reliably, never wound up to force a binding door shut. | Yes |
| The sensors are drifting out of line | It is intermittent and the sensor LED flickers as the door passes. | Realign and tighten both. A loose bracket moves every time the door runs. | Yes |
| The door is binding on the track | It reverses at the same spot every time and sounds strained there. | Track and rollers. Winding the force up to beat it is how panels get bent. | Call somebody |
What it costs
$95 – $175
For a sensor alignment or replacement. National guide range, checked September 2026 — get it in writing.
Exact price
Want somebody to look at it?
The range above is a guide. Tell us what you need and somebody who works your area will price it properly.
If the door will not move and a car is stuck behind it, do not wait on a form — leave the door where it is and ring somebody. Do not pull on the spring or the cable.
Your details are used to quote this job and nothing else.
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